Showing posts with label Mount Monserrate. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Mount Monserrate. Show all posts

Friday, February 6, 2015

Top 10: Most popular TRAVEL posts of the year (Unpublished #3 from Hong Kong)

A family trip to Spain:  One of our many, MANY yet-to-be-published overseas travel stories


From Hong Kong:


As explained last month in my Honorable Mentions compilation, this is Part 3 of a previously unreleased "Best of" series from January 2014, based on page views for my 2013 posts.  Yes, this series is an entire year old and these posts are from 2013.

Writing new content for this blog has taken a backseat recently to family time, ministry, leading hikes, the occasional climb, and traveling overseas.  Perhaps this unpublished series will help readers pass the time until I start blogging again.  If not, check back when I get home from Hong Kong in a few days!

As always, links look like this.  Here is the link to last week's "Top 10: Most popular non-travel posts"!  Only the 18 travel posts from that year were factored into this list.  So now, from January 2014, here are some brief reflections on each of my travel-themed Top 10:



10.  Bogota, Pt. 5:

Risky Business and the Musicology Hostel



Sometimes a travel post is nothing more than a plug for a Colombian hostel with plenty of character.  And characters.

A couple of earlier entries in this Colombia travelogue, covering my journey from the U.S. to South America, didn’t make this Top 10 list:  No Sleep ‘Til Bogota!, and also Bogota, Pt. 2:  Colombia, At Last






This journey that immediately followed South America began in Switzerland, continued in Italy, and was finally coming to a close when I met Ravil at the JFK airport.

More worthwhile, I.M.O., is the less popular "Italy: Killing a Day in Milan."  Stories and photos from my least favorite Italian city (I prefer the mountains and countryside anyway) included the can’t-miss sights of the Duomo cathedral and the Swiss/ Italian mountains.






On some years we frequently fly to Italy every few months, so I’m looking forward to seeing Houtan again on one of our upcoming Italian visits!




Though awash in criticism, this story was all clean, innocent fun.  After relocating to the next Colombian hostel, I edited and tightened up this post to clear up any misconceptions.

The inserted apology was probably overkill.






And I thought that previous #8 post about the birthday party was controversial?  Public and private backlash on Facebook and Twitter was staggering after I released this story of fellow traveler Hector and me exploring a rough part of Bogota, Colombia.

Granted, our lives were put in serious danger multiple times (including a terrifying, unmentioned episode that I’ll share in person but would never release online).  But Hector and I knew what we were doing.  And God was certainly watching out for us as we shared a wonderful act of service together.



True story, with one significant footnote:  The only artistic license I took with this narrative was my intentional vagueness about Hector’s true identity (again, I’ll freely share the “real” version with anyone who asks).

In other words, a few extra sentences would've changed this story completely.  Choosing to omit this detail dramatically changed the original, inspirational narrative into a straight up life-or-death adventure… and it definitely was that.






Three hours before departure, Mommy changed her mind about allowing Lil’ Lena to visit one of Daddy's friends in the Netherlands for the day.  I gave a rain check to my graciously understanding friend in Amsterdam and hit this Dutch beach town instead.




Thanks to my other well-traveled friends at the Flying Pig Beach Hostel, this relatively minor weekend getaway was one of my favorite trips of the year (after Rome and Venice, of course)!

But alas, there's just no substitute for an overseas daddy-daughter day trip.




5.  Northern Italy, Pt. 2:

Verona, Venice, and beyond





Before the year's end party in Rome, some clever friends surprised me for a most memorable weekend in Venice.  While the departure from Venice was downright catastrophic, the quick stopover in Verona beforehand was a joy.



The only damper on Carli's and my wedding facility recon for Robbin (which we never got around to anyway) and touristy Verona sightseeing was setting a sky high record for sleep deprivation.  Full flights had dragged out my U.S. departure for Italy by two full days, forcing me to cut out the en route get-together in Austria entirely.  Thus, I was a barely conscious zombie by the time I reached Verona.

I don't exactly remember falling asleep... But at some point that night, I woke up in Venice for the main event.




Speaking of ever-evolving trip beginnings, this unplanned trip to Osaka was the fallout from the unfortunate events in Part 1- China: Shot down and the earlier teaser, China:  Beijing in My Sights.  No single factor was to blame.  My convoluted visa scheme was risky, I was brushed aside by my hopeful contact in China, and the standby passengers were all deplaned when our flight was declared overweight in Seattle.

The change in destination sent me headlong into Japan's Golden Week. The festivals and parades were exuberant. And it was all worth the hassle for the opportunity to bust out some wingman magic for my eligible bachelor buddy, Xia.



My Japanese coworkers later objected that chaotic Golden Week is the craziest time of the year to fly standby to Asia.  But it came down to flying to Osaka or flying home.  On that note, flying home from Osaka was one of the most unbelievable "non-rev" ordeals I've ever encountered.  The best twist: getting my passport yanked in Guam. Long story.

And that's why there's definitely gonna be a very belated Parts 3 and 4 on Garth's Blog to conclude this saga.  Trust me, the rest of this story is too outrageous to pass up.



The Swiss protest photo above is the first pic that I ever "live tweeted" from a news making event.  Merely a week after my "In Harm's Way" incidents in Colombia (see #7 on this list), I wasn't in a rush to get caught up in any more excitement for the month.  But then this happened.

Kathy and I hadn't seen our buddy Sebastien since the dancing, sailing, swimming, and snorkeling at Club Med in Turks and Caicos Islands several months earlier.  After landing in Zurich, I hopped a train through the Swiss Alps to Lausanne.  Seb gave me some suggested sights to see while I waited for him to get off work.  Before sightseeing, I made sure that I could navigate my way to his flat and also to our meeting spot, the nearby Church of Saint-Franรงois.  All was peaceful.

All hell had broken loose by the time I returned to our meeting spot that evening.  Throngs of protesters had overrun the church courtyard and the surrounding streets.  The collective shouting* made it impossible to hear a phone conversation, so Seb and I attempted to locate each other with a mish mash of emails, texting and Facebook.

*Fortunately, there were no gunshots this time.  Kathy and I nearly peed our pants when deafening gunfire broke out during the earlier protest that we saw in Argentina.  The nerve of those guys!








By the time Seb showed up from work, the crowd had moved on.  I excitedly told him what had just happened as we left the scene to kick off our night.  Other than my pics and a video clip, he had to take my word for it.

The next day's stop was, you guessed it, another Italy trip.  But that was completely unrelated to my second most popular travel story of the year...





My tweet from the JFK airport taxiway was elaborated on here, in this short story about the alcohol-related incident that forced our plane to return to the gate.  It was hastily composed on my Note phone as my water taxi cruised through the canals of Venice.  And it is disgusting.




Consider this a cautionary tale about excessive drinking before flying... as well as a warning to anyone in the airline cabin service industry who is prone to gag reflex.



And the #1 most popular travel post of the year (and nearly all time) is...






Other than a questionably prudent but climbable side excursion (referenced in the title) that I discovered, the pilgrim's path up Colombia's Mount Serrate is not difficult nor dangerous in the least.  In fact, anyone in decent shape should be able conquer the high altitude and run up to the peak.

Lingering too late at the touristy summit, however, can lead to problems.




Since trail access is shut down before dusk, running back down may be the best option to slip through the gates before they are locked for the night.  In this case, though, there were some non-runners making their way down who needed a hand.  And you know what they say, leave no man (or woman) behind.

As I was assisting some older ladies on a steep stretch of trail, the gates below closed for the night.


 Lowering fragile bones over the side of a trail and then boosting them back up the other side was the only thing I could think of to get us back to the trail head.  Surely there was a better way?


Previously unknown fact: 
A single photo of Hector, the violence-prone star of #7's "In Harm's Way," is subtly buried in the #1 post.  That's probably the closest I'll get to publicly revealing the truth about Hector's identity.  Any guesses as to which one he is?


Thanks for taking the time to revisit these travel posts, readers.  The current adventure in Hong Kong is almost ready to be published.

Stories from our family's more recent and upcoming overseas travels are coming soon!

Sunday, March 10, 2013

Leaving Bogota: Hiking Mt. Monserrate and Scaling the Wall

Taking the easy way down from Mount Monserrate, Colombia (The 17th century chapel in the background sits at the top, at 10,341 feet above sea level)


The final afternoon of my quick 2 1/2 day weekend in Colombia included a hike up Bogota's highest peak, a boisterous celebration at the top with new friends, and lowering a trio of older women down a wall to escape a locked gate.  Sound unbelievable?


Fortunately, the day did NOT include any more attempted muggings at knife point (click here for a link to "Bogota, Pt 4: In Harm's Way," and a reminder that everything turned out okay on Sunday night). On a side note, Garth's Blog readers with decidedly polarized opinions of my earlier antics may not be won over with this adventure, either.  Judge for yourselves.



Laughing at the local music video channel with my friends over Monday morning breakfast doesn't just sound culturally insensitive.  It was.  Ezra, Fancy, Carla, and everyone else in our hostel loft tried in vain to block out the TV's eye-popping inanity as we planned out the upcoming day.  For my take on the Musicology Hostel, check out my previous post, Bogota, Pt.5: Risky Business and the Musicology Hostel (link).

Knocking out all day Sunday with the harrowing events of "In Harm's Way" pushed my moonlight Mount Monserrate hike back to a daylight hike on Monday. Even more disappointingly, well researched plans to hike through the Chicaque region before flying back to the U.S. that day had to be scrapped entirely.





I should have known better than to make a second feeble attempt at a solo exploration. No less than four separate groups of wonderful friends from two different hostels bumped into me during the crosstown jaunt to Mount Monserrate. The diversions were energizing but also ate up a large chunk of daylight. Love those people, though!



A cable car glides up the side of Mt. Monserrate, sparing view-seekers the hike to the top



After lunch, one of these friends walked with me to the base of Monserrate but was deterred by the its modest height. We said goodbye at the trailhead so I could start running up to the peak.



The lung-busting altitude occasionally slowed my cobblestone trail run down to a brisk walk. Meeting fellow hikers on the way up also compelled me to slow down to match their pace as we chatted en espanol. Most foot traffic was heading downhill, though, due to the popularity of the funicular and cable cars that tempted visitors to bypass the uphill hike.











At times, the trail run seemed more like a cobblestone stair run.  Even the tamest sections were accommodated by, you guessed it, more stairs.  And many sections of these stairs were quite oversized.  Only on the downhill return run was it possible to lunge far enough to soar over an extra giant stair or two with a single leap (there were also sections of normal-sized stairs).






At 3,152 metres (10,341 feet) above sea level, the peak's panoramic views of Bogota and the surrounding mountains were stunning. The white 17th century chapel at the top was closed at that hour, but two restaurants and a snack bar served to remind visitors that this pilgrimage was also a tourist attraction. The warm empanadas and pastel de pollo paired perfectly with the hot cocoa.

Please note:  Cocoa was consumed, not coca. We've made it this far into my Colombia travelogue without a single joke about the C-word, A.K.A. Colombia's most infamous and unfortunate export. Why ruin this streak of cocaine-free blogging restraint now?

**********



For whatever reason, my stealthily makeshift (though not recommended) route to the top of Monserrate earlier had drawn the attention of several camera snapping tourists. Don't worry, nothing life-risking happened here. But climbing up over the ledge drew mixed reactions, many of them admittedly gratifying.  It was a relief to see amused expressions even on the guards' faces.

After that edgy (pardon the pun) entrance, excited strangers inexplicably lined up for me to be photographed with them. And with their girlfriends. And with various attendees of a gigantic South American Herbalife convention. And even with some lady's kid.  Maybe they thought I was somebody else?




Someone from the crowd snapped a few pics with my own cell phone (a couple photos are included above). Let's hope that the more outlandish photos will surface someday.  If any of you Monserrate hikers from Monday are reading this, please send some of those crazy pics my way!

**********



Lingering for so long with my new friends at the top of Monserrate led to a downhill sprint to beat the closing of the gates. Determined to avoid buying a ticket for the cable car, I started running down the trail. It was too late.

Note: This probably goes without saying, but the following is yet another example of inadvisable behavior.  Rounding a blind corner, I nearly trampled a few older ladies who were stopped, panicking, in the middle of the trail. A gate was blocking their descent.  Making the time-consuming hike back up to the cable car at the top would've been the proper thing to do, of course.  But it was improbable that, in their physical condition, they could still catch the last ride down anyway.

I hurdled myself over the protective wall on the side of the trail and hopped down to the ground.  It was barely more than a 10 foot drop, so I offered a hand to the trio of stunned ladies above. Reluctantly at first, they accepted my assistance and began to swing each of their legs over the wall.

Reaching up, I lowered the first two ladies down to the ground. The third lady's clothes got snagged on something.  She took quite a while to free herself.  At this point, we were all laughing at the absurdity of our dilemma.

Since the third lady was still securely stuck on the top of the wall, I quickly stepped away to snap this photo before returning to the escape effort.



After lowering everyone safely to the ground, I walked around the gate and hopped up the other side. Pulling the ladies back up over the wall was much easier to coordinate.  With the locked gate behind us, I ran ahead to scout out the remaining gates below. The women would have few problems bypassing them.


Stopping on the way down to gaze at sprawling Bogota, I discovered my Galaxy Note 2's panoramic photo mode.  That would've came in handy at the top of Monserrate.


I tore the rest of the way down the trail, slowing down only to visit with a local boy and some Spanish speaking maintenance workers who were calling it quits for the day.

How could anyone run past this boy's horse in the villa and not stop to pet him?


Feeling especially hyperactive, I continued running from the base of Monserrate and into the heart of the city.

**********



Saying goodbye to my new friends (and making newer friends) at the Musicology Hostel took quite a while. Many of us will be meeting up again.  A couple of friendly U.K. backpackers even "booked" me as a guide for a Mount St. Helens climb in June!


Significant setbacks tripped up the jog back into town, the bus to the Bogota airport, and finally an unplanned taxi ride. Suffice it to say that nearly every word in my meager Spanish vocabulary was put to the test in a heated, um, discussion about excessive fees.



None of that mattered. Just after midnight on Tuesday, my Delta 767-400 left Bogota for New York. The familiar tunes of Matt Kearney and Mumford & Sons quietly flowed from the speakers in the Business Elite cabin. I was headed home!


The next leg of the vacation would begin in a few days, starting in Switzerland.  Would I be able to convince Kathy and Lena to come along with me to Europe?



Coming next on BlogSpot...


Two domestic "intermission" posts with the family, beginning with the wedding of the year in Sunriver!



And then we continue our story in...

Switzerland!



Wednesday, March 6, 2013

Bogota, Pt. 5: Risky Business and the Musicology Hostel

My current quick trip to Europe is coming to a close, so I will be soon be resuming this blog from the Pacific Northwest.  There is still one final post from Colombia that will be uploaded on Friday this weekend, and it's classic Garth's Blog. In other words, my unconventional travel style may continue to polarize readers who may or may not share my sense of impulsive adventure.


Thanks to all the readers who contributed public and private feedback to my overwhelmingly controversial post, "Bogota, Pt. 4: In Harm's Way" (link). The offline fire storm brewed up by Pt. 4 made the criticism of my earlier "Bogota, Pt. 3: The Big Welcome Party" (link) post seem like a mild-mannered public library zoning protest!


I slightly reworded sections of the "In Harm's Way" entry (including the intro) to tone down the self-depreciating language that played up the "Oops!" factor of the narrative.  However, I'll admit that being intentionally vague about my true motives during that scary situation does nothing to vindicate my actions.  Oh well.  Even in its current form, it's still a completely true story (albeit missing crucial context that casts me in a more favorable light)... and a darn good one at that.

**********


On a less divisive note--  Here's my pitch to fellow travelers that the Musicology Hostel should be a top choice for any backpacker looking to avoid any risky business in Bogota:


The balcony overlooking the courtyard of the Musicology Hostel in Bogota, Colombia


The Musicology Hostel in Old Bogota's colonial district of La Candelaria is THE spot for shared community and a staff of free spirited musicians, all joining to shape the mellow vibe. The location is within walking distance of Bogota attractions and nightlife, decorum is memorable, and the facilities are secure and well maintained. It is an upscale hostel at a reasonable price.

Sure, there's always the risk of innocently overhearing the brazenly inappropriate misuse of a neighbouring shower stall. Twice. But all in all, the Musicology Hostel couldn't be recommended more highly.




Reggae and Ellie are among the many wandering souls who search for musical bliss and harmony at the Musicology Hostel in Bogota, Colombia.

The always cheerful Sami keeps everyone smiling and laughing.


Diego keeps jamming into the wee hours of the morning.



As always, it's the staff and the other backpackers from around the world who make all the difference. I won't list each of you here, but let's make sure that our paths cross again!



Coming this weekend on BlogSpot...

Hiking Monserrate and Saying Goodbye!

Tuesday, February 26, 2013

Bogota, Pt. 4: In Harm's Way

Warning: Violence is not typically depicted in Garth's Blog. That being said, the last part of this entry from Sunday night (originally posted as "The Bodyguard") references a couple of rough encounters I had in Colombia.  One part of the story could be upsetting to some readers, but there's nothing offensive here.  Everything was under control.  If I were to share the true context of my experience with Hernando, it would be apparent that the situation was not as grim or foolish as it sounds.  Had that context been specified, the facts of this story would be re-read in a different, much more positive light.

I'll post another adventure from Colombia in early March, after I fly home from a quick visit with some friends in Europe.  Enjoy the story and the pics!


Armed soldiers were stationed at random streets throughout Bogota... but only in some neighborhoods.  This recruit is guarding government buildings behind the Colombian President's house. 



The Sunday flea market in Bogota was a worthwhile diversion this morning. I returned in time to upload last night's "Big Welcome Party" blog post (link) from the Musicology Hostel. My fellow backpackers had vastly different ambitions (if any) for the day than mine, thus I set out for a solo exploration of Bogota.

Solo was the plan, anyway.



The plaza on the way to Mount Monserrate, a hike for another day


Exploring the neighborhoods of Bogota


Barely an hour into my jaunt, I ran into my volatile Colombian friend Hernando for a second time. He was having an undignified moment, one which could happen to the best of us. He excitedly accepted my invitation to come along with me on the journey.  Note: Like hitchhiking or any other risky activity I may practice in a foreign county, I do not advise engaging in this behavior nor would I EVER allow today's events to happen if traveling with my precious family.

Hernando felt greatly indebted to me after the dramatic circumstances of our first meeting (omitted here from the public version of Garth's Blog). He declared himself to be my personal bodyguard inside what he claimed was the most dangerous city in the world.

Little did I know that Hernando would later save my life. Twice.



We took turns calling the shots.  The Gold Museum had closed before we arrived.  Hernando compensated by excitedly showed me some of his favorite spots, discoveries that he had made since arriving here in Bogota.  He indulged me in a few of the touristy sites, too.



Buying fresh produce, baked goods, and sweets from Colombian street vendors



Street performers entertain spectators on the streets of Bogota






The Plaza de Boliviar, featuring a statue of Simon Bolivar surrounded by the National Capitol, Palace of the Justice, Lievano Building, the Palace of Narino, and the 19th century Catedral Primada cathedral



Hernando repeatedly resisted my intentions to hike to the top of Mount Monserrate at dusk. He rightly feared that it would be too dangerous, an objection that would soon prove to be ironic.

It was tempting to ditch Hernando and hike up Monserrate myself. My inner conflict sprang from the awareness that he was a fellow traveler who clearly needed a friend. Someone to listen.

Setting aside my plans, we sat down in the back of a 16th century cathedral to quietly talk. Hearing his troubled life story moved my heart to compassion.

**********


A scary situation soon overshadowed my good intentions. Hernando insisted on running a quick errand, which was completely legit and legal.  As we walked we suddenly found ourselves crossing a very rough neighborhood, even for a city with a reputation like Bogota.  Disclaimer: Many travelers agree that Bogota's reputation as an extremely dangerous city is outdated. I rarely felt unsafe in most areas that I visited.

Things turned ugly as we attempted to leave the district. Hernando had been warning me all day about knife wielding "stick 'em guys," who will "cut you and carve you up for no reason."

Indeed, they will.


On two separate occasions, we were approached by such people. When confronted with the threat of violence, my preferences will either be peaceful resolution or evasion. Hernando preferred a more direct approach...

The specifics of these encounters will be left up to the reader's imagination. Many of us will never understand what moves a person to attempt to harm another human being. Fortunately, nobody was seriously injured today. I am still thanking God that neither of these situations further deteriorated..


Happy ending: We made it out alive!


It goes without saying that I parted ways with Hernando after that. He made his way back to his hotel room, and I returned to the Musicology Hostel.


Blogging with my new phone from one of the Musicology Hostel's outdoor common areas.  Remind me why I bother bringing along my laptop and tablet on vacations anymore?



Someday I may share Hernando's story on Garth's Blog. He gave me his permission.  Key details are being withheld for my own personal reasons, as well as sensitivity to his family.

If granted a do-over, would I have persuaded Hernando to not cross through that neighborhood? That would have been wise. Would I take back the time spent demonstrating to Hernando that he is a valuable person, loved by God?  Not a chance. 

After all, Mount Monserrate will still be here tomorrow!



Coming next on BlogSpot...

Hiking Monserrate and Saying Goodbye!